Category: House Paint

Cleaning your brushes and rollers isn’t the most exciting part of a paint project—but it’s one of the most important. Good tools aren’t cheap, and taking care of them means they’ll last longer, perform better, and save you money in the long run.

Here’s how to clean up like a pro, whether you’re using water-based or oil-based paint.

What You’ll Need:

• Bucket of warm, soapy water (for latex)
• Mineral spirits or paint thinner (for oil-based)
• Brush comb or wire brush (optional but helpful)
• Old rags or paper towels
• Rubber gloves
• Drying rack, hanger, or string for air-drying

For Latex (Water-Based) Paints

Step 1:

Remove Excess Paint

Wipe or scrape excess paint back into the can. Use a rag or edge of a paint tray to remove as much as possible.

Step 2:

Wash Thoroughly

Rinse brushes and rollers in warm, mild soapy water. Swirl and work the bristles or roller nap with your hands or a brush comb to loosen dried paint.

Repeat the rinse in clean water until the water runs clear.

Step 3:

Shake and Dry

Shake or spin out excess water. Use a towel to blot, then reshape the bristles and hang or lay flat to dry. Don’t store them upright while still wet—it can warp the handle or cause mildew.

For Oil-Based Paints

Step 1:

Use Solvent

Fill a container with mineral spirits or paint thinner and swish your brush or roller thoroughly to break down the paint.

You may need a second rinse in fresh solvent for heavy buildup.  Let them air-dry as described above.

Tip: Use gloves and ensure proper ventilation when working with solvents.

Bonus: Cleaning Between Coats

If you’re painting over multiple days, you don’t need to clean everything right away. Wrap your brush or roller tightly in plastic wrap or a zip lock bag and store overnight.

Extend the Life of Your Tools

Clean tools give better results and last far longer. A few minutes of cleanup now saves you from having to replace brushes mid-project—or worse, leaving streaks or fuzz in your next coat.

Autohome Has the Gear You Need

From premium brushes and roller covers to brush combs, cleaning solutions, and pro tips—we’ve got what you need to paint well and clean up right. Ask us how to choose the best tool for your project because it makes a difference.

A freshly painted or stained deck can make your backyard feel brand new. It also helps protect the wood from moisture, UV rays, and daily wear. Whether you’re going for a clean solid colour or a more natural, semi-transparent finish, it all starts with good prep.

What You’ll Need:

• Deck cleaner or wood brightener
• Scrub brush or pressure washer
• On-Floor deck sander (available for rental from Autohome)
• Sandpaper or sanding pole (60–100 grit)
• Exterior stain or deck paint
• Paint brush, stain pad, or roller
• Painter’s tape
• Drop cloths or plastic
• Safety gear (gloves, mask if sanding)

Step 1:

Clean the Deck

Use a deck cleaner or wood brightener to remove dirt, mildew, and old stains. Apply with a garden sprayer or scrub brush, and let it sit for the recommended time before rinsing.

Tip: A pressure washer can make this step easier—just be careful not to damage the wood. Use a wide-angle tip and keep the nozzle moving.  Avoid triggering the spray on the deck.  Trigger off of the deck board and then move the spray onto the deck to avoid damaging the boards.

Let the deck dry completely for at least 48 hours before staining or painting. Remember, if it rains, begin the count down again.

Step 2:

Sand Rough Areas

Once dry, inspect for rough spots, splinters, or peeling paint. Sand any problem areas using 60–100 grit sandpaper to smooth the surface and help the new coating stick.

You don’t need to sand the whole deck unless the wood is severely weathered or previously painted—just focus on the trouble spots.

Step 3:

Protect Surrounding Areas

Use painter’s tape to mask off siding, railings, or posts. Lay down drop cloths or plastic to protect nearby walls and plants from splatter.

Step 4:

Choose Paint vs. Stain

• Solid colour stain or deck paint gives full coverage and hides flaws—great for older decks.
• Semi-transparent stain allows the wood grain to show through while still offering protection.
• Clear sealers provide minimal colour but protect against water and UV damage.

Choose a product made specifically for decks and exterior wood.

Step 5:

Apply in the Right Conditions

Ideal painting/staining weather is mild (10°C–25°C), dry, and not too sunny. Early morning or late afternoon works best.

Start by brushing stain or paint along the edges and between deck boards. Then use a roller, stain pad, or wide brush to coat the larger surfaces, working with the grain of the wood.

Apply one thin, even coat and let it dry fully before adding a second, if required.

Step 6:

Let It Cure

Drying time varies by product—most need 24–48 hours before light foot traffic. Wait at least 72 hours before placing furniture or planters back on the deck.

Refresh Your Outdoor Space the Right Way

A well-prepped, well-finished deck looks great and lasts longer. Whether you’re refreshing for the season or protecting new wood, the right process makes all the difference.

Not Sure What to Use?

Autohome carries a range of stains, sealers, and deck paints tailored to Canadian weather—plus pads, brushes, and expert tips for every type of deck. Bring in photos or measurements and we’ll help you get what you need.

Painting the outside of your home isn’t just about curb appeal—it protects your home from weather, moisture, and sun damage. With a bit of prep and the right products, you can give your home’s exterior a clean, refreshed look that lasts for years.

Here’s how to approach it like a pro.

What You’ll Need:

• Exterior paint (acrylic latex or masonry-specific)
• Primer (if needed)
• Pressure washer or scrub brush
• Caulking and sealant
• Scraper or wire brush
• Sandpaper (80–120 grit)
• Ladder and safety gear
• Painter’s tape and drop cloths
• Brushes, rollers, or sprayer

Step 1:

Clean the Surface

Use a pressure washer to remove dirt, mildew, and flaking paint. If you don’t have one, a hose and a stiff scrub brush with soap and water will do the job—just allow extra time.

Tip: Be gentle around windows, doors, and trim to avoid damaging these areas.

Let the surface dry completely—usually 24–48 hours depending upon conditions.

Step 2:

Scrape and Sand Loose Paint

After the surface is dry, use a paint scraper or wire brush to remove any loose or flaking paint. Sand rough edges so they feather smoothly into the surrounding area.

Step 3:

Repair and Caulk

Check for gaps around windows, doors, siding seams, or cracks in stucco. Use exterior-grade caulk to seal joints and keep moisture out. Patch larger holes or damaged wood with exterior filler and let it cure fully.

Step 4:

Prime Bare or Problem Areas

Priming helps new paint stick and improves coverage. You don’t always need to prime everything—but definitely spot-prime:

• Bare wood or stucco
• Areas you’ve patched or filled
• High-weather spots like fascia or sills

Use a primer designed for exterior use and compatible with your topcoat.

Step 5:

Choose the Right Paint

Use 100% acrylic latex exterior paint for most wood, vinyl, or aluminum siding.

Flat finishes hide imperfections, while satin or low-gloss options are easier to clean and more durable in high-traffic areas.

Step 6:

Paint with a Brush, Roller, or Sprayer

Start at the top and work your way down. Use a brush or angled sash brush for trim and detailed areas, and a roller or sprayer for siding.

Apply 2 coats for even coverage and longer wear. Follow label directions for drying time between coats.

Final Step: Check Your Work

Walk around your home and check for missed spots or thin areas. Touch up as needed and remove painter’s tape carefully and immediately once everything is dry.

Protect Your Home—and Make It Shine

Exterior painting takes effort, but the payoff is huge. Done right, it can last beyond10 years, protecting your home and keeping it looking sharp.

Not Sure Where to Start?

Autohome carries premium exterior paints, primers, caulking, and weather-tested tools to help you get the job done right. Bring in a photo or just tell us your siding type—we’ll walk you through the best products and techniques.

A worn-out tub or stained sink doesn’t always need replacing. With the right products and some careful prep, you can refinish porcelain, enamel, or fibreglass fixtures at home. Painting your tub or sink is a cost-effective way to make your bathroom feel new again—no demolition required.

Is It Worth It?

Yes—if:

• Your tub or sink is structurally sound (no cracks or deep gouges)
• You want a fresh, clean look without the expense of a replacement
• You’re willing to do careful prep and allow for full curing time

No—if:

• The surface is flaking or the base material is damaged
• You plan to use the fixture heavily within a couple of days (this process requires downtime)

What You’ll Need:

• Tub and tile refinishing kit (epoxy-based)
• Cleaner and degreaser or etching cleaner
• Sandpaper or abrasive pad (400–600 grit)
• Painter’s tape and drop cloths
• Small low nap roller or high-density brush
• Protective gear (gloves, mask, eye protection)
• Ventilation fan (if indoors)

Step 1:

Clean Thoroughly

Use a strong degreaser to remove all soap scum, oils, and mineral deposits. Pay special attention to corners, drains, and around faucets. Make sure to rinse thoroughly.

You may also need to use an etching cleaner if your refinishing kit includes one—this roughens the surface so the coating can bond properly.

Step 2:

Sand the Surface

Lightly sand the entire surface of the tub or sink using fine-grit sandpaper (400–600 grit) or the abrasive pad included in your kit. You’re aiming for a matte, slightly rough texture—not deep scratches.

Wipe everything clean with a damp cloth and let it dry completely. Tack with a tack cloth.

Step 3:

Tape Off Surrounding Areas

Use painter’s tape to mask around walls, faucets, fixtures, and the drain. Lay a drop cloth or plastic sheeting around the base of the tub or vanity to catch any drips.

Step 4:

Mix and Apply the Epoxy

Follow your kit’s instructions closely. Mix the epoxy components thoroughly, then apply with a low nap roller or small high-density brush.

Apply 2–3 thin, even coats. Work in smooth, overlapping strokes to avoid streaks or bubbles. Allow proper drying time between coats.

Step 5:

Let It Cure

This is the most important step—don’t rush it. Most tub refinishing kits require 48 to 72 hours of curing time before you can use the surface.

Keep the room well ventilated and avoid touching or placing anything on the surface while it cures.

Optional: Add a Clear Topcoat

Some refinishing kits include a protective topcoat to improve shine and scratch resistance. If so, apply it after the final colour coat has dried fully.

A Fresh Start for Your Bathroom

Painting your tub or sink can stretch your renovation budget further and dramatically improve the look of your space. It’s a weekend project that makes a lasting impact.

Autohome Has the Right Kit for the Job

We stock professional-quality tub and tile refinishing kits, plus rollers, brushes, and prep supplies. Not sure what type of material you’re working with? Bring in a photo and we’ll help you choose the best system for a clean, lasting finish.

Painting tile is one of the easiest ways to update a backsplash, bathroom wall, or even a tired old floor—without the mess or expense of a full demo. With the right prep and products, painted tile can look fantastic and hold up surprisingly well.

Here’s how to give your tile a fresh new look.

Best Tile Surfaces to Paint

• Ceramic and porcelain wall tile
• Backsplashes
• Low-traffic floors (with specialty coatings)
• Fireplace surrounds

Note: Painted tile isn’t ideal for high-moisture, high-wear areas like shower interiors or busy entryway floors. But for decorative and lightly used surfaces, it works great.

What You’ll Need:

• Heavy-duty degreaser or TSP substitute
• Sandpaper or sanding block (150–220 grit)
• Tack cloth or clean microfibre cloth
• Painter’s tape
• Bonding primer
• Tile paint (epoxy, urethane, or enamel)
• Angled sash brush and low nap roller

Step 1:

Clean Thoroughly

Tile may look clean, but it holds onto soap scum, grease, and cleaner residue. Use a strong degreaser or tile-safe cleaner to remove every trace of dirt. Rinse well and let dry completely.

Step 2:

Sand the Surface

Lightly sand the tile to dull the surface and help the primer grip. You’re not trying to scratch through the glaze—just remove the shine. Wipe off all dust by vacuuming and with a tack cloth before moving on.

Step 3:

Tape Off Surrounding Areas

Use painter’s tape to protect any adjacent walls, countertops, or fixtures. This is especially important if you’re working near grout lines or tight corners.

Step 4:

Apply a Bonding Primer

A bonding primer is key. It creates a surface the paint can stick to, even on glossy tile. Apply one light, even coat and let it dry as directed on the label—usually 4 to 6 hours.

Some primers may require a second coat depending on the surface and tile colour.

Step 5:

Paint in Thin Coats

Use a small low nap roller or angled sash brush to apply your tile paint in two or three thin coats. Let each coat dry fully before applying the next.

Epoxy or enamel-based tile paints are best—they’re designed to resist moisture and wear. Some systems include a clear sealer for added protection.

Step 6:

Let It Cure

After the final coat, allow the paint to cure for several days before exposing it to water or placing anything on it. Most tile paints need at least 48–72 hours to fully harden.

Fresh Tile Without the Demo

With a few coats of the right paint, even dated tile can look clean and modern again. It’s a smart way to update a space on a budget—and with a weekend’s worth of work.

Ask Autohome for the Right Tile Paint

We carry high-adhesion primers, specialty tile paints, and everything you need to get started. If you’re unsure what product is best for your surface, just bring us a photo or tile sample—we’ll help you make the right call.

Want a high-impact, low-cost refresh? Painting your cabinets or doors can completely transform the look of a kitchen or bathroom. But because these surfaces are handled daily, proper prep and durable products are key to getting results that last.

Here’s how to do it right.

What You’ll Need:

• Degreaser or TSP substitute
• Sandpaper (120–220 grit)
• Tack cloth or microfibre cloth
• Painter’s tape
• Drop cloths
• Screwdriver or drill (for removing hardware)
• Bonding primer
• Cabinet and door paint (latex or enamel)
• Low nap roller, angled sash brush, or paint sprayer

Step 1:

Remove Doors and Hardware

Take off all doors, drawers, handles, knobs, and hinges. Label everything as you go (a small piece of masking tape with a number works well), so reassembly is easy later on.

Place doors flat on a drop cloth or work surface for easier painting.

Step 2:

Clean Thoroughly

Use a degreaser to remove built-up grime, especially around handles and high-touch areas. Kitchen cabinets in particular may have layers of oil or residue that regular soap won’t fully cut through.

Rinse with clean water and allow to dry completely.

Step 3:

Sand the Surface

Lightly sand all surfaces you plan to paint. The goal is to dull the finish and help the primer stick—not to remove every bit of old paint.

After sanding, use a tack cloth to remove all dust, visible and not visible.

Step 4:

Tape Off and Protect

Use painter’s tape to protect surrounding walls, floors, or countertops. If you’re painting in place, tape off adjacent areas around doors or cabinet frames.

Step 5:

Prime the Surface

Apply a bonding primer using a low nap roller or brush. This step is especially important for glossy or laminate surfaces, as it helps the paint grip and resist peeling.

Let the primer dry completely (check the label—typically overnight) and give it a light sand before painting with P240 grit sandpaper.  Vacuum and tack the cabinet faces again to remove all of the dust residue.

Step 6:

Apply the Paint

Use a low nap roller for large flat areas, and a brush or sprayer for edges and trim. Apply two light coats, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next.

Pro Tip: Don’t overload your brush or roller—multiple thin coats will give you a smoother, more durable finish than one heavy coat.

Step 7:

Let It Cure and Reassemble

Let the paint cure for at least 24 hours before reinstalling doors and hardware. The longer you wait, the harder the finish will be—some cabinet paints take up to 7 days for a full cure.

A Big Change for a Small Investment

Freshly painted doors and cabinets can make an entire room feel brand new. With the right prep and products, your DIY job can rival a professional finish.

Ask Autohome What Paint Holds Up Best

At Autohome, we stock durable cabinet paints designed to handle real life—plus bonding primers, rollers, and sprayers for a smooth finish. Stop by and tell us what you’re working on—we’ll help you pick the right products for the job.

Painting a floor is a great way to refresh a tired space and add durability underfoot—especially in garages, laundry rooms, and basements. But floors take more abuse than walls or ceilings, so proper prep and the right paint are key to a long-lasting finish.

Here’s how to do it right.

What You’ll Need:

• Floor paint or epoxy paint coating
• Concrete or wood floor cleaner/degreaser
• Sandpaper or concrete etching solution (if needed)
• Paint roller with extension pole
• Angled sash brush for edges
• Painter’s tape and drop cloths
• Primer (if required by your coating)
• Floor patch or filler (for cracks)
• Safety gear (gloves, mask, eye protection)

Step 1:

Clean and Prep the Surface

Start by removing any furniture, rugs, or obstacles. Sweep thoroughly, then clean the floor with a degreasing cleaner to remove oil, dirt, and residue. For concrete, the best prep is our On-Floor grinder or to use a specialty cleaner or etching product.

If you’re working on a wood floor, lightly sand the surface with 120–150 grit sandpaper to dull the finish and help the paint bond.

Step 2:

Repair Any Damage

Patch cracks or holes using a floor filler designed for your surface (concrete or wood). Allow it to dry fully, then sand smooth. This step ensures a level surface and prevents your paint from wearing, cracking or peeling prematurely.

Step 3:

Prime (If Needed)

Some floor paints are self-priming, but not all. Check your product instructions. If priming is required, apply a suitable primer using a roller, and allow it to dry thoroughly—typically 4 to 6 hours.

Step 4:

Paint the Edges

Use painter’s tape to mask off baseboards or walls. Then, use an angled sash brush to paint a clean line around the perimeter of the floor—this gives you a crisp edge and easier access when rolling.

Step 5:

Roll the Floor

Pour your floor paint into a tray and load the roller evenly. Work in small sections, using long, even strokes. Roll in one direction for consistency, and avoid going back over areas that have started to dry.

Allow the first coat to dry fully, then apply a second coat for added durability and better colour coverage.

Pro Tip: Avoid walking on the floor between coats. Use boards or cardboard to step on if necessary.

Step 6:

Let It Cure

Even if the paint feels dry to the touch in a few hours, most floor coatings require 24–72 hours to fully cure—especially for heavy furniture or foot traffic. Check the label for specific cure times before moving everything back in.

A Smooth Finish That Holds Up

With the right products and prep, painted floors hold up beautifully against foot traffic, water, and wear. Plus, they’re easier to clean and maintain than unfinished surfaces.

Not Sure Which Floor Coating to Use?

Autohome carries durable floor paint and epoxy systems for concrete, wood, and specialty applications. Come by and tell us about your space, traffic levels, and timeline—we’ll help you choose the right product for a lasting finish.

Textured ceilings—like popcorn, knockdown, or swirl—can hide imperfections and add character. But when it’s time for a refresh, painting them takes a bit more care than a smooth surface. Don’t worry—it’s still a manageable DIY project if you prep properly and use the right tools.

What You’ll Need:

• Ceiling paint (flat or matte finish recommended)
• Thick-nap roller (3/4″ or more)
• Extension pole
• Angled brush
• Drop cloths or plastic sheeting
• Painter’s tape
• Ladder or step stool
• Spray bottle (optional for patch testing)

Step 1:

Check If It’s Paintable

If you have a popcorn ceiling and your house was built before the 1990s, you’ll want to ensure it doesn’t contain asbestos. Don’t attempt to sand or scrape without testing first.

If the texture has never been painted before, do a patch test with water in a spray bottle. If it absorbs and softens, use an oil-based primer.

Step 2:

Protect the Room

Cover all furniture and floors with drop cloths. Textured ceilings are prone to shedding a bit during painting. Use painter’s tape along the wall line and around light fixtures or vents.

Step 3:

Choose the Right Roller

Use a thick, high-capacity roller cover—typically 3/4″ to 1-1/4″ nap—to get into the grooves and crevices of the texture. A roller with too short a nap will skim the surface and miss the deeper cavities of the texture.

Step 4:

Cut In Around the Edges

Use a good, angled sash brush to cut in along the walls and around fixtures. Work slowly to avoid pulling off texture, especially if it’s unsealed or flaky.

Step 5:

Roll the Ceiling Gently

Load the roller with paint, then roll it out in your tray to remove excess. Start rolling in slow, straight lines. Don’t press too hard—let the roller do the work.

Work in small sections and overlap slightly to maintain a consistent texture and avoid roller lines.

Pro Tip: Roll in one direction across the entire ceiling rather than a criss-cross pattern. This helps maintain uniform texture appearance when dry.

Step 6:

Let It Dry and Decide on a Second Coat

Let the first coat dry fully. If the old colour is still showing or coverage is uneven, apply a second coat using the same method. Painting a textured ceiling isn’t as fussy as you might think—it just takes patience, the right roller, and a gentle touch.

Ask Us About the Right Roller

Autohome has the thick-nap rollers, flat ceiling paints, and prep tools you need to get the job done right. Not sure what texture you’re working with? Snap a photo and bring it in—we’ll help you figure it out.

Painting your ceiling can instantly brighten a room, cover up years of wear, and give your walls a fresh new frame. While ceilings can be tricky (hello, neck strain!), a few smart techniques make it much easier—and cleaner—than you might think.

What You’ll Need:

• Ceiling paint (usually flat or matte finish)
• Roller with an extension pole
• Angled brush
• Thick-nap roller sleeve (3/8″ to 1/2″) for textured surfaces
• Drop cloths or plastic sheeting
• Painter’s tape
• Ladder or step stool
• Paint tray and liners

Step 1:

Clear and Protect the Room

Move as much furniture as you can out of the space, and cover what remains with plastic sheets. Lay drop cloths on the floor and tape around ceiling fixtures, electrical outlets, and the tops of walls with painter’s tape.

Tip: Remove light fixtures or ceiling fan covers if possible, and shut off the power to be safe.

Step 2:

Prep the Ceiling

Use a damp cloth or broom to remove any cobwebs or dust. For kitchens or bathrooms, you may want to clean the ceiling with mild soap or a TSP substitute to remove grease or residue. Rinse thoroughly and let it dry completely.

Step 3:

Cut In Around the Edges

Use an angled sash brush to paint a 2–3 inch border around the edge of the ceiling where rollers can’t reach. This includes corners, vents, smoke detectors, and around light boxes. Feather the edge of your cut lines so your roller blends seamlessly.

Step 4:

Roll the Ceiling

Pour ceiling paint into a tray and load your roller evenly. Start rolling in straight lines from one side of the room across the width of the room, overlapping each pass slightly to avoid missed spots. Always keep a wet edge to prevent lap marks.

Pro Tip: Roll toward the room’s main light source (like a window) to hide any subtle texture differences.

Step 5:

Let It Dry—and Decide on a Second Coat

Ceiling paint typically dries within a few hours, but follow the label for specific timing. If your old ceiling colour is showing through or the finish looks uneven, apply a second coat using the same method.

Optional: Paint the Trim and Crown Moulding

If you have crown moulding, now’s a great time to refresh it too. Use painter’s tape to keep clean lines and a small sash brush for precision. It might not be the most glamorous part of the job, but once the ceiling is clean and bright, everything else in the room looks better.

Need Help Choosing Ceiling Paint?

Autohome carries low-spatter, high-hiding ceiling paint in finishes designed to minimize flaws and simplify the process. Need help picking the right roller? Our in-store team can walk you through it.