Author: danny

With so many paints, sealers, and protective finishes on the market, choosing the right marine coating can feel overwhelming. But once you break it down by surface type and use, the decision gets a lot easier.

This guide will help you choose the right product—whether you’re painting a hull, sealing a deck, or refinishing interior wood.

1. Where Are You Painting?

The first step is knowing where the coating will go—and what it needs to handle.

Below the Waterline (Hull Bottoms)

• Use antifouling paint to prevent barnacles, algae, and slime buildup.
• Choose ablative (self-polishing) for boats that are used often.
• Choose hard bottom paint for trailered boats or high-speed hulls.

Above the Waterline (Topside)

• Use marine topside paint for hulls, gunwales, and upper decks.
• These are UV-resistant and formulated to flex with your boat’s movement.

On Wood or Interior Trim

• Use marine varnish for a high-gloss wood finish.
• Use interior-grade marine enamel for easy-to-clean, protective colour.

On Metal

• Use a metal primer followed by a compatible marine enamel or urethane.
• For aluminum boats, make sure you use a paint system specifically designed for bare aluminum.

2. What Material Are You Coating?

Different materials need different products.

3. What Conditions Will It Face?

• Sun exposure? Look for UV-resistant formulas.
• Saltwater? Choose coatings with corrosion protection.
• Heavy wear or foot traffic? Use non-skid deck coatings or high-durability paint systems.
• Wet conditions? Use epoxies or waterproofing sealants designed for submerged or damp surfaces.

4. What Finish Do You Want?

• Glossy and sleek? Use topside enamel or marine urethane.
• Matte or satin? Look for lower-sheen deck paints or sealers.
• Natural wood look? Use a clear marine-grade varnish or wood oil.

5. Other Things to Consider

• Ease of application – Spray-on vs. brushable vs. roll-on
• Dry/cure time – Some products need 2–3 days before launching
• Recoating requirements – Know how long you can wait between coats
• Compatibility – Always check if your new paint can go over your existing coating

Ask Autohome Before You Open the Can

Bring in a photo, material type, and let us know how and where you use your boat. We’ll help you find the right coating system that lasts longer, performs better, and suits your skill level—whether you’re refinishing a canoe, a cruiser, or anything in between.

A slow drip or hairline crack in your boat might seem minor—but left unchecked, it can lead to costly damage. Marine-grade epoxy is one of the fastest and most reliable ways to seal leaks, whether you’re fixing a fibreglass hull, a leaking fitting, or a cracked seam.

Here’s how to use it properly for a watertight, long-lasting repair.

What You’ll Need:

• Two-part marine epoxy or epoxy putty
• Sandpaper (80–120 grit)
• Acetone or surface cleaner
• Disposable gloves and mask
• Mixing container and stir stick (or kneadable putty)
• Applicator or plastic spreader
• Fibreglass patch (optional for reinforcement)

Step 1:

Locate and Inspect the Leak

Leaks often show up around fittings, seams, or impact zones. Dry the area completely and inspect closely—on fibreglass, look for hairline cracks or gelcoat blisters. For wood or aluminum, check for seams or joint separation.

If water is seeping through from inside, mark the location before draining the hull.

Step 2:

Dry and Clean the Area

The repair surface must be clean, dry, and free of wax, dirt, or grease. Scrub with acetone or a marine degreaser, then let it dry thoroughly. Sand the area to rough up the surface and improve adhesion. Tack with a tack cloth.

If working in damp conditions or dealing with wet wood, choose an epoxy designed to cure in moisture or underwater.

Step 3:

Mix and Apply the Epoxy

Mix the epoxy resin and hardener thoroughly (or knead epoxy putty, if using a pre-measured stick). Work quickly—the pot life may only be 5–15 minutes depending on the product and temperature.

• For cracks or seams, press the epoxy into the gap using a spreader or gloved fingers.
• For surface leaks or voids, apply a smooth layer over the area.
• For larger repairs, apply a fibreglass patch over wet epoxy, then add more epoxy on top to seal it in.

Step 4:

Let It Cure

Leave the epoxy undisturbed for the full cure time listed on the label—typically 4 to 24 hours. Avoid moving or stressing the area until fully hardened.

Once cured, you can sand and paint over the repair if needed.

Quick Tips:

• Use slow-cure epoxy in warmer weather for more working time.
• If you’re sealing around a fitting or screw, epoxy can be used as a base before re-bedding with sealant.

Stay Dry, Stay Safe

Small leaks often lead to big problems if left alone. Sealing them with marine epoxy is a quick fix that can save you serious time and money—especially if you catch them early.

Autohome Has You Covered

From moisture-tolerant epoxies to fast-curing putties and patch kits, Autohome stocks trusted marine repair products that work. Stop in, show us a photo or describe the problem—we’ll help you choose the best product for your boat and water conditions.

If you keep your boat in the water for longer periods, bottom paint—also called antifouling paint—is a must. It helps prevent algae, barnacles, and other marine growth from clinging to the hull, reducing drag and protecting your investment.

Here’s how to apply bottomkote the right way.

What You’ll Need:

• Antifouling paint (hard or ablative, depending on use)
• Marine primer (if required)
• Sandpaper or scuff pads
• Paint roller with solvent-resistant sleeve
• Brushes (for edges and tight areas)
• Painter’s tape and drop cloths
• Protective gear (gloves, mask, goggles)
• Jack stands or cradle (if trailer isn’t accessible)
• Stir sticks and mixing bucket

Step 1:

Choose the Right Bottomkote

• Ablative bottom paint wears away gradually and is self-cleaning—great for boats that are used often.
• Hard bottom paint stays intact and resists heavy wear—ideal for faster boats or those frequently trailered.

Bring in your boat specs, local water conditions (fresh vs. salt), and storage habits—Autohome can help you choose the right type.

Step 2:

Haul and Support the Boat

The hull needs to be completely out of the water and securely supported. Use a proper trailer, boat cradle, or jack stands—safety first.

Step 3:

Prep the Hull

Start by pressure washing the hull to remove slime and buildup. Once dry, sand or scuff the bottom using 80–120 grit sandpaper or a scuff pad to help the new paint adhere.

If you’re painting over an existing antifouling paint, make sure it’s compatible with your new product. If it’s not, or if you’re switching types, a barrier primer may be required.

Wipe the surface clean with a solvent wipe or acetone and then a tack cloth.

Step 4:

Tape Off and Mix

Use painter’s tape to mark the waterline for a clean edge. Stir your bottom paint thoroughly—marine paints can separate quickly.

Step 5:

Apply the Paint

Using a roller or brush, apply the paint in smooth, even coats. Focus on coverage, especially around keels, chines, and through-hull fittings. Allow drying time between coats as recommended on the label.

Most bottom paints require two coats for full protection. Some also require launching within a specific window (e.g., within 72 hours of application)—check the label carefully.

Step 6:

Touch Up Support Points

Once the boat is repositioned or off the jack stands, touch up the small unpainted areas.

Protect Your Hull—and Your Performance

A clean, coated hull cuts through water more efficiently and helps prevent long-term damage from marine growth.

Ask Autohome About the Right Bottom Paint

We stock top-performing antifouling paints, barrier primers, and prep tools—and we know what works best for Northwestern Ontario’s freshwater conditions. Bring in your boat details and we’ll walk you through everything you need.

Over time, a boat’s once-glossy surface can become dull, chalky, or oxidized—especially under the harsh sun and water exposure. Polishing your boat restores that clean, reflective shine and protects the surface against future damage.

Here’s how to bring back that showroom finish, whether your boat is fibreglass, gelcoat, or painted aluminum.

What You’ll Need:

• Marine-safe soap and water
• Polishing compound (light or medium cut)
• Buffing pads or a dual-action polisher
• Microfibre cloths
• Marine wax (optional, for extra protection)
• Bucket and sponge
• Protective gear (gloves, eye protection)

Step 1:

Wash the Boat Thoroughly

Use a marine-safe soap and water to remove salt, dirt, and grime from the hull. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and let it dry completely before polishing. Avoid household detergents—they can strip the surface and leave a residue.

Step 2:

Assess the Surface

Run your hand over the surface—if it feels chalky or rough, it likely has oxidation. Lighter oxidation can be polished out. For heavy oxidation or faded gelcoat, you may need a stronger compound or to start with a more aggressive buffing pad.

Step 3:

Choose the Right Polish

Use a marine-specific polish or rubbing compound. These are formulated to cut through oxidation and restore gloss without damaging the gelcoat or paint underneath.

• Light polish for minor haze or dullness
• Medium-cut polish for moderate oxidation or weathering
• Heavy-cut compound for greater chalkiness or fade.

Step 4:

Apply the Polish

Apply a small amount of polish directly to the surface or your buffing pad. Use a dual-action polisher if possible—it’s faster and provides more even pressure.

Work in 2′ x 2′ sections:

• Spread the polish on low speed
• Increase speed and apply steady, overlapping passes
• Wipe off residue with a clean microfibre towel

If polishing by hand, use circular motions and firm pressure—but be prepared for a bit of elbow grease.

Step 5:

Wax for Extra Protection (Optional but Recommended)

Once the polish is removed and the surface looks restored, apply a marine wax to protect the finish and make future cleanups easier. Use a clean pad and apply in overlapping sections, then buff to a high shine.

Keep It Looking Good

Polishing once per season—or more often in harsh conditions—keeps your boat looking its best and protects against UV, salt, and scum buildup.

Let Autohome Help You Shine

We carry a range of marine-grade compounds, pads, buffers, and waxes—everything you need to restore and protect your boat’s finish. Bring in a photo or let us know what your hull is made of, and we’ll help match you with the right product for the job.

A fresh coat of paint not only improves your boat’s appearance—it helps protect it from salt, UV damage, and wear. Whether you’re restoring a faded fibreglass hull or giving your aluminum canoe a new look, painting a boat is a project most owners can handle with the right prep and products.

What You’ll Need:

• Marine paint (topside or hull paint)
• Primer (if required)
• Marine cleaner or degreaser
• Sandpaper (80–220 grit)
• Painter’s tape and drop cloths
• Brushes, rollers, or spray gun
• Clean rags and tack cloth
• Safety gear (gloves, goggles, mask)

Step 1:

Choose the Right Paint

• Topside paint is used above the waterline—designed to withstand sun, spray, and impact.
• Hull/bottom paints (like antifouling coatings) protect below the waterline, especially in moored boats.
• Aluminum boats require a primer and paint system made specifically for bare metal.

Come in with your boat’s material (fibreglass, wood, aluminum) and where it’ll be used—we’ll help you choose.

Step 2:

Clean and Sand

Thoroughly clean the surface to remove dirt, algae, grease, or oxidation. Use a marine degreaser and rinse well. Then lightly sand the surface to remove old, flaky paint and create a surface the new paint can grip.

Wipe it clean with a rag dampened with acetone and then tack with a tack cloth.

Step 3:

Mask and Protect

Use automotive masking tape to protect hardware, trim, and edges. Lay down drop cloths to catch any drips or sanding dust.

If you’re only painting above the waterline, be sure to mask along that line carefully using a level or laser guide for accuracy and vinyl tape for a clean paint edge.

Step 4:

Prime (If Needed)

Apply a marine primer if:

• You’ve exposed bare fibreglass, wood, or aluminum
• You’re switching paint types (e.g., from oil-based to water-based)
• Your paint requires it for proper adhesion

Follow the manufacturer’s directions for application and drying times.

Step 5:

Apply the Paint

Using a low nap roller or brush, apply the paint in long, even strokes. For larger areas, a spray gun can save time—but a roller and brush work just as well for most small to mid-size boats.

Apply 2–3 thin coats, allowing each to dry as directed.

Pro Tip: Use a “roll and tip” technique—roll the paint on, then immediately follow with a brush to smooth out bubbles or roller texture.

Step 6:

Let It Cure

Let the final coat cure fully before launching or loading gear onto the boat. Some paints dry in a few hours; others take 24–72 hours. Follow the label for best results.

A Smooth Finish That Lasts

With a weekend of work and the right marine paint, your boat can look brand new and hold up better in the water. Proper surface prep and application are key to a finish that lasts through the season.

Ask Autohome About Marine Paint Systems

We carry high-performance marine coatings and primers for fibreglass, wood, and aluminum boats. Bring us your boat’s material and photos—we’ll help you match the right system for a smooth, durable result.

Whether you’re fixing a gouge in your fibreglass hull or sealing up a cracked paddleboard, marine epoxy is one of the most versatile tools in your repair kit. It’s waterproof, strong, and bonds to a wide range of materials—even in damp conditions.

Here’s how to use epoxy properly on your boat or marine equipment.

What You’ll Need:

• Marine-grade two-part epoxy resin and hardener
• Clean rags and acetone or degreaser
• Sandpaper (80–120 grit)
• Mixing container and stir stick
• Disposable gloves and safety glasses
• Putty knife or plastic spreader
• Fibreglass cloth (if reinforcing a large area)

Step 1:

Prep the Surface

Clean the area thoroughly with acetone or a degreaser to remove oil, salt, or wax. Sand the surface with 80–120 grit paper to give the epoxy a textured surface to bond to.

Use a tack cloth to remove all sanding dust before moving on.

Step 2:

Mix the Epoxy

Follow the instructions on your epoxy packaging—most marine epoxies are a 2:1 ratio of resin to hardener. Use a clean mixing container and stir slowly until the mixture is fully blended and free of streaks.

Be mindful of the epoxy’s pot life (how long the mixture stays usable). Once it starts to thicken, don’t apply it—it won’t bond properly.

Step 3:

Apply the Epoxy

For shallow repairs or surface sealing:

• Use a putty knife or brush to apply the mixed epoxy directly onto the surface.
• Work it into cracks or voids and smooth it out.

For reinforcing with fibreglass:

• Wet out the surface with epoxy.
• Lay the fibreglass cloth over the repair.
• Apply more epoxy on top, saturating the cloth fully.

Step 4:

Let It Cure

Allow the epoxy to cure as directed—usually between 4 and 24 hours depending on temperature and product. Avoid moving or disturbing the area during this time.

Once cured, sand the area smooth and apply a marine topcoat or paint if desired.

Bonus Tips:

• Epoxy cures faster in warm temperatures—store your materials accordingly.
• Use a slow hardener in hot weather to give you more working time.

Autohome Has What You Need

We carry a full range of marine epoxy systems, fillers, cloth, and application tools—plus expert advice on which product is best for your repair. Bring in a photo or describe your project and we’ll help you get it done right the first time.